Streatley to Ivinghoe Beacon (up into the Chilterns)

Day-4 (Goring to Watlington)

Starting Day 4

After yesterday's excursions today was to be a quiet stroll along the Thames and across the valley before a final gentle climb up to Watlington. About 16 miles in distance but over gentle terrain.



The day started bright and sunny again, at breakfast we were joined by a young lady, training phone systems or walking the Ridgeway what a choice, no contest. After another lovely breakfast, full it was time to gather our gear for today and try and re-find the path.

The decision was made not to go back into town, but to cut under the railway and re-join the path a bit further on. After a quick stop at the local shop for supplies were passed under the railway and joined what we thought was the path. It was but we were going the wrong way, realising our error we turned round and found the correct path (the sign was hidden behind a hedge, our excuse).

The River Thames at
South Stoke

Crossing The thames by train

The route at this stage ran between the main London to Bristol main railway line and the River Thames so the peace of the countryside was often interupted by the sound of trains. The red kites were again circling overhead as we crossed the field into the pretty village of South Stoke. It was here we left the railway and moved down to the bank of the river.

St Marys Church - North Stoke

We were on the East bank, on the opposite side runs the Thames Path. We now followed the river through quiet grasslands grazed by local cattle, passing under the viaduct that carries the railway over the Thames. A mile further on we entered the tranquil churchyard of North Stoke, it was time for a rest and a quick cup of tea.

After our brief rest it was full steam ahead still following the line of the river towards Wallingford.
Just past Mongewell Lake the route right away from the Thames, crossing the A4074 we follow the line of Grims Ditch, a slightly raised path across the Thames Valley towards the Chiltern Hills ahead. The path follows this dead straight line for the 4 or 5 miles climbing steeply through wooded glades up to the village of Nuffield our planned lunch stop for today.

Pub closed, but still
time to rest

The slight hiccup for today was that again the pub was closed, the signs said open but no sign of life was to be found. With no alternative nearby we crashed out on the tables and the best of the situation.

We were now most of the way through the days walk, only about 6 miles to go before our B&B for the night.

The fields & woodland of
The Chilterns

The route after lunch undulated considerably as we made our way through woodland and across fields heading across the lovely countryside in a Northerly direction towards our goal.

With a couple of miles to the Ridgeway rejoins The Swan's Way which now shares the route with well into the next day. Detouring slightly from the hard track surface we use a welcome permissive path across the fields to rest our weary feet, before turning left up a minor road to Watlington.

Our B&B for tonight was just outside this pretty village, we arrived at mid-afternoon, the owner was busy, so she pointed in the direction of The Carrier Arms a real ale pub just across the fields. So off we dumped our rucksacks and headed off for a spot of rest bite care to the accompaniment of more red kites nearby. After a couple of pints we headed back to the B&B for tea and cakes, life doesn't get much better.

Resting at The Carrier Arms

Dinner that night was fish and chips from the local chippy was down with a few more pints of the delicious beer. To round it off we celebrated Roy's xxth birthday with a spot of birthday cake, candles and all.

Again we had landed on our feet with a glorious B&B for the night even if one of us had to use the garden room.


Day-5(Watlington to Wendover)

Watlington to Wendover
18 miles of Chiltern hills

This was the penultimate day of our walk, but was to be another tough one 18 miles up over The Chilterns, finishing with the descent down to Wendover. To cap it all the weather forecast said rain.

The day started off a delicious breakfast, but then things started to go wrong, firstly Nick managed to swop Mike's boots for his spare pair and then in the ensuing frenzy N left his camera behind. Luckily our landlady found it and dropped it off to us en-route. All of this however delayed what was already a slightly later start then planned.

The Swan's Way and
The Ridgeway join The Icknield Way

For the first few miles the track contoured around the base of Watlington Hill, following the Swan's way up towards the M40. Just as we were to cross the motorway the first sign of rain started. Just after the motorway The Icknield way joins us and the 3 ways co-exist for a number of miles

The rain was not much to start with but a few miles further on the skies opened and it poured down, full wet weather gear was the order of things for the morning. The track at this stage passed through an area of chalk pits, wet chalky soil is not the easiest to walk on in fact things became a bit slippery at times.



Lodge Hill and a chance to dry out

 The track now began to climb steeply through the dense woodland up towards Bledlow Cross. This was to be the first climb of the day. Once over the top the Icknield Way departs following the obvious track, whereas the Ridgeway bears right over the grassy fields. The route becomes a little vague at this stage but once we found the gate the route ahead became obvious again. we were now heading towards Princess Risborough after the field crossings the path turns right and starts the climb up Lodge Hill, through the woods at first but once at the top the whole of Buckinghamshire was spread out in front of us. And yes we could see Didcot Power Station again.

The rain had briefly stopped and it was decided that a tea break was in order we'd covered a good 9 miles in just over 3 hours. It was also a chance to dry out a wet gear, a bit at least.

the steep descent of the hill was a bit tricky in places, the wet surface certainly didn't help. Once down there were a few muddy fields to cross (it was just like home), the rain had now started again as we strode round the golf course, taking a brief stop to view the Koi Carp in a large pond. The path now crosses the Chiltern Railway first over a croosing and then over the tunnel before a mile or so of road walking to the edge of Princes Risborough.

The Red Lion at Whiteleaf
(drying tables & beer)

The Icknield Way had now rejoined us as the track loops round the South east of the town. We were well over 12 miles in by now so where to stop for lunch, the nearest pub was the Red Lion at Whiteleaf, slightly off the route, but we decided to head there. Good choice, the beer was good and as the sun came out the table provided a great drying area.

Chequers with Coombe Hill behind

After a good rest, we re-joined the route a few miles on, we were now crossing an area of marvelous views and rolling chalk downs. The weather had dried out and it was a great afternoon for a stroll through the countryside. A couple of miles further on we were now overlooking Chequers, with a backdrop of the monument at Coombe Hill.



Monument at Coombe Hill

 The path now circles round the front of the PM's retreat before crossing the road and heading up into the woodland. Whilst the first part is quite steep, the route is well marked as you head through the trees up to the now hidden monument to those who fought in the Boer War.

We rested at the top to enjoy the splendid views across the countryside and to say goodbye to the power station. It was now time for the last mile, all downhill, to the Red Lion at wendover our final nights stop. The hotel was full but after a little confusion checking in we settled down for another lovely night of food and comfort.

Tomorrow it would be home.

Day-6 (Wendover to Invinghoe Beacon)

The final day was to be a short one of just 12 miles, starting in the market town of Wendover, going up over the Chilterns, through Tring and finally up to the beacon. The plan was to start early, thereby reaching our goal for a late lunch.

Our final days walk
(Wendover to Ivinghoe Beacon)

After another substantial breakfast, we dumped our bags at the hotel reception,  to be picked up later, we left for the final stroll at about 08.30 the path left Wendover following the river valley. Skirting the edge of Wendover Woods the route climbs up into the woods and over Cock's Hill before rejoining the Icknield Way for the rest of the journey.

Tring Park
(not far to go now)

following the line of the ridge the scenery varied from broard leafed woodland to rich farmland. Stopping briefly for a quick break in a small hamlet we crossed through a field of cattle before descending slightly into Tring Park, the once home of the Rothschilds. The path skirted the edge of Wigginton then dropped down into the valley to cross the main A41 to reach civilisation again by Tring station.

Following the road towards Albury we decided to take a shortcut through the fields, our mistake the path turned left. With no gate in sight we were obliged to climb the barbed wire fence to rejoin the Ridgeway with no gain in distance.

Ivinghoe Beacon from
Pitstone Hill

We were now in the Ashridge Estate, the path rises to regain the higher ground, running through more woodland along the line of Grim's Ditch. Once we left the trees the path now rose steeply up Pitstone Hill, on our left was the chalk pit, however ahead was the beacon, only about 1 mile to go but most of it was uphill.

Stopping only for a quick breather we strode across the lush grassland before ascending the brief sharp Steps Hill to reach the base of Ivinghoe Beacon itself.

The last half a mile is all uphill but we made it just before 13.00, 87 miles completed in just under 5 days.



Only 500m to go



On top of Ivinghoe Beacon

  After a rest to catch our breath and take the obligitory photos we decided to make our way to the rendevous point, the Travellers Rest for the lift home.

Celebrating at
The Travellers Rest

Reaching there just before 14.00 there was just time for us to celebrate our achievement before our lift home turned up.

We may of been four reasonably tired people but the whole trip was extremely worthwhile.

All we have to say is go on give it go, as a long distance walk it's tiring but relatively easy.